Dear reader, as you read this, the curtain is rising on the most significant and heartwarming moment of the year for countless Chinese families. Wanderers have returned to their nests, and lights are glowing in millions of homes. The opening act of this grand festival is, and always will be, the Nianyefan – the Chinese New Year’s Eve reunion dinner. It is more than just a carnival for the taste buds; it is a totem of emotion and belonging. However, if we zoom out and look at the rising steam…

